The Big Swing - 5.11b
Sam Fagan following pitch 2 on a cool summer day.
The Big Swing is located at the Soo River Bluffs just off Highway 99, North of Whistler, BC. The Bluffs have recently seen a lot of activity since its original development in the early 2000’s. Up until now the multi-pitch potential has been mostly overlooked. The Big Swing offers a full day of adventurous, steep, multi-pitch climbing in a beautiful setting. The first two pitches require a rack of cams and a variety of crack climbing skills. Following these first two pitches, you can leave your cams at the ledge (retrieve on your way down the rappel route) and continue on with just a light rack of quick draws. The route is consistent 5.10 climbing with a few sections of 5.11, and as such the route should not be taken lightly. The route maintains some of the adventurous alpine spirit it was put up with and should be approached with more caution than your typical cragging day.
Kaylan Worsnop cruising up pitch 5 on a damp mid summer day. Photo: Tempei Takeuchi
Getting to the Soo River Bluffs is easy and it can be reached with a 2wd car. Drive 15 km north of Whistler and turn west onto the Soo River FSR. Continue up the road for approximately ten minutes and take the first right fork available. After crossing the river use an obvious parking area immediately on your left. Walk up the road and look for a trail headed up the bank to your right approximately 30m from the parking area. Follow cairns and flagging until reaching the boulder fields. Continue following cairns across the boulders until reaching the fork up to the main climbing area. Continue past the single pitch climbs by traversing along the boulders and through a small group of trees; following cairns until you can view the large dihedral that marks the route. Use fixed ropes to gain the ledge where the route starts. The approach should take approx. 30-40 minutes.
Sam nearing the top of pitch 4 with the Soo River below.
Conditions: The Soo River Bluffs face mainly SW and as such can be very hot in midsummer. It is recommended to visit this area in the Spring or Fall when temps are friendly and the bugs are at bay. An ascent of the route can be done while Squamish is receiving light rain in the summer season. The area tends to be slightly warmer and dryer than Squamish and the route is mainly sheltered. During heavy rainfall expect the route to be wet.
Gear Required: A 60m rope, 6 quickdraws, 4 runners, single set of cams from .3-4”, doubles of 1-2” cams(BD sizes).
Descent: From the last belay of the climb follow a light trail up climbers left and then quickly back downhill. Watch for a small cairn down near the edge and the first rap station. 5 rappels with an optional rappel from the ledge at the start of the climb. On the second rappel be sure to stay climbers left to find the next station. Tie knots! This is a steep rappel route and you have to approach near the end of your ropes to reach the ledge where you stashed your gear.
The first known complete ascent of the route was done by myself and Andrew Sylvester in the summer of 2020. The route was later cleaned and equipped over the following two years. Craig McGee and a partner had climbed at least part of the route sometime in the 2000’s although after reaching out little was learned about the extent of their ascent. A bolt and a carabiner had been left at the start of pitch 3 which remains on the route to the present day.
